Title: Powder Room
Format: Hardbound
Genre: Non Fiction / Fashion
Rating: 10/10
Genre: Non Fiction / Fashion
Rating: 10/10
Madhur Bhandarkar’s movie ‘Fashion’ was the first to explore
what is little known to the general people, like me, of the world of fashion.
But like all his other films, the characters were too unidimensional and the
story was largely put together by mix-and-match of some controversial scoops
from the Fashion world. There were no insights. It looked what it was – an
outsider’s view of the workings of the Indian Fashion. It was high time an
insider threw some light.
I first read about this book here, and I
was hooked. Fashion is such a fascinating subject. Moreover, I had a ‘Fashion
Designer’ phase while growing up, so I am pretty well-versed with a lot of fashion
designers and models. I think Sushmita Sen winning the coveted Miss Universe
title was a defining moment for Indian Fashion industry. Atleast my generation,
which was still in school, took notice of this field. I even had a ‘Fashion
Journalist’ phase. But today in retrospect, I am glad I did not become
either. I am not cut out for the Fashion
world. I hardly care about clothes now (I mean the latest trend and not
wearing!).
‘Powder Room’ by Shefalee Vasudev, an ex-Marie Claire editor
and a journalist for 15 years writing on popular culture, social trends and
fashion, attempts to offer a 360 degree view of the Indian Fashion industry.
She interviewed 300 people within the scope of her book to understand what
‘fashion’ means to them. What came out eventually in the form of a book is an
expansive view of Indian fashion industry –it takes into account how everyone perceives
fashion and how fashion touches everyone and its impact, which is surprisingly
far reaching and wide-spread. This book is as much about the elite class who
can afford the latest luxury brands as much it is about the middle class
shopper who gets a replica made for considerably low cost.
With a fetching cover page, the
book is divided into ten chapters, each focusing on a distinct aspect of
fashion. ‘Powder Room’ packs a lot in its 330-odd pages. Here are a few glimpses:
The
famous fashion designer Raakesh Agarvwal talks about fighting his personal
demons, getting overwhelmed by the downside of fashion world to getting back on
track and finally getting acclaim. Jennifer, the Sales girl with a luxury
brand, admits to the conflict between her middle class personal life and the
professional one surrounded with luxury brands and elite customers. Ludhiana ladies make
dream customers for the luxury brands in their eagerness to lap up every latest
offering. The super rich splurge on designer wear but India has a huge middle class which
cannot afford those expensive clothes, and thus the emergence of darzi culture.
It
was also refreshing to read about all kinds of models - where there are
desperate ones like Nagma, eager to do whatever it takes to make it big; there
are also the practical ones like Laxmi Rana and a lot of other senior models
who have learnt to draw the line and keep their sanity. There are observations
about Naga culture and fashion, and surprising lack of organized retail stores
in a fashion conscious state.
While
Rohit Bal stands out for the luxurious clothes he creates and the dramatic way
in which he presents; Sabyasachi Mukherjee also has a huge following for his
clothes which are distinctive and original. He is obsessed with Indian weaves,
textiles and embroideries, and goes all out to revive, sustain, contemporarize
the traditional crafts. The story of Patan Patola sarees and Salvi family
actually mimic the fate of a lot of original Indian weaves and crafts. Without
their openness to experimentation and any unique marketing strategy to make
those traditional weaves aspirational for the young generation, the art is sure
to get lost in the near future.
The fashion media consists of stylists and
editors from fashion magazines on one hand, and journalists who cover fashion
as a segment for the mainstream newspapers on the other hand. The former
focuses on insights and latest trends while the latter thrives on controversies
and scoops. And finally the much talked about fashion world politics – feuding
fashion designers, multitude of fashion weeks sprouted even in B-class cities
now, no clear criteria for selection of young designers for them, and many such
industry specifics. Bridal wear is certainly a big business avenue for the
Indian fashion world and top designers agree that no matter what they show on
the ramp, they are making a lot of Indian wear for their customers.
Eventually,
‘Powder Room’ is insightful, informative, gripping and eye-opening. It gives
you an all-round view, multiple perspectives of fashion world and what fashion
means to different people. The author explores the “aspects of modern India through
fashion”, while also offering a study on evolving fashion consciousness. Though
she steers clear of the controversial topics, she does discuss the pitfalls and
downside of the fashion world but gives enough examples of people who have made
it and yet not lost their heads to the excesses.
I
am not in a position to comment if she has done justice to the Indian fashion
world, may be her contemporaries can comment better. But as far as it is about
me, I had a great time reading this book. It opened surprising as well as
interesting aspects of a world, which has not been too talked about in books.
May be there are many more things to say but it is certainly a good beginning.
A
must read for anybody interested in fashion world, fashion students as well as
people who are interested in anthropology, culture and social change. It
strengthens my belief that non fiction is an extremely interesting category to
read.
P.S.
I googled every reference that she throws in – whether people, books or
articles. I also googled all those cover pages she talks about.
Image courtesy: Random House India website